Undoubtedly
one of the most well-known skin care treatment products - Retinoic Acid/Retinol (derived from Vitamin A),
and for good reason! Retin-A, the prescription drug known generically as retinoic
acid or tretinoin has a good deal of historical evidence to support its
effectiveness, not to mention thousands of positive patient testimonials. The real reason it’s been so popular is
simple – it works!
How
does Retinoic Acid work?
Retin-A (Retinoic Acid) does double
duty in helping to boost collagen. It has the potential to stop photoaging
before it starts. “The retinoids prevent the rise of collagenase after UV
exposure,” Dr. Voorhees at the University of Michigan said. Collagenase is what
breaks down collagen. But regular use of a retinoid product also increases the
amount of new collagen formed, research has found, and that new collagen will
last for years. Skin cells contain retinoid receptors that help regulate how
the cell functions. As people age, their cells behave more erratically. “But
consistent use of Retin-A helps normalize the cells,” said Dr. Min-Wei
Christine Lee, a dermatologist in Walnut Creek, Calif.
What’s
the Difference between Retinoic Acid and Retinol?
Only
Retinoic Acid, has a direct biological effect on the skin, however fortunately
for us, our skin has naturally occurring enzymes that convert Retinol and
Retinyl Palmitate into the active form, Retinoic Acid. While it may take two
and three steps to Retinoic Acid, they can deliver the well-established skin
benefits of Retinoic Acid while producing fewer side effects.
New Retinol Superstar -
Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR)
At
The International Dermal Institute they have discovered a new patented
molecule, that is an ester of Retinoic Acid and works similar to Tretinoin
(Retin–A) but without the irritation. Unlike Retinoic Acid, results of the
standard RIPT (Repeat Insult Patch Test) skin irritation test showed no
irritation after 21 days of continual use. And because it is not a drug it can
be used in cosmetic products. Results of a two week study showed that a 0.1%
concentration of HPR applied topically gave a 50% improvement in skin roughness
and a 40% improvement in skin surface scaling, an indicator of dryness. No
irritation was evident in any of the test subjects. And unlike Retinol and
other derivatives that must be converted to the biologically active form of
Retinoic Acid, HPR binds directly with
Retinoid receptors to initiate a response (i.e. cell proliferation and
differentiation) in the skin. Hydroxypinacolone
Retinoate represents a new generation of Retinoids that will no doubt be
continually researched for their positive impact on the skin especially in
addressing skin aging.
Overnight Retinol Repair
by Dermalogica
· Highly-active,
0.5% microencapsulated Retinol (HPR).
Helps
increase collagen production and cell turnover for visibly firmer, smoother
skin. Advanced microencapsulation technology stabilizes Retinol and maximizes
absorption and effectiveness over time.
·
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 and TAUT peptides
Help stimulate collagen production for firmer, more evenly-toned skin.
Help stimulate collagen production for firmer, more evenly-toned skin.
·
Antioxidant Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (Vitamin C)
Helps stimulate collagen synthesis and reduce skin discoloration.
Helps stimulate collagen synthesis and reduce skin discoloration.
·
Bioenergized Copper
amino acid complex
Shown to reduce visible wrinkles and improve skin firmness.
Shown to reduce visible wrinkles and improve skin firmness.
·
Ceramides and active Polysaccharides
Hydrate and prevent water loss in the skin, helping to soften fine lines.
Hydrate and prevent water loss in the skin, helping to soften fine lines.
·
Lavender and antioxidant
Licorice Root
Helps soothe skin and calm irritation.
Helps soothe skin and calm irritation.
At
Balance Spa we have received extremely positive feedback from our clients on
the efficacy of the Overnight Retinol Repair.
Reports of tightening, improved hydration, decrease in sun spots and
improvement in overall tone. Next time
you are in for a facial or massage, please ask one of our trained estheticians
to tell you more about this revolutionary new product. One of the exciting aspects of the Overnight
Retinol Repair is the ability to control the strength by combining it with a
buffer cream. This is a great way to
ease into it and still get all of the benefits without feeling overly sensitive.
Who
Should Not Use Retinoic Acid/Retinol?
· Don't use a retinoid if you are pregnant or breastfeeding.
· Benzoyl peroxide and alpha hydroxy acids may deactivate
retinoids, so don't layer them.
· Waxing can cause excess redness on retinoid-treated skin;
don't use a retinoid for several days before a treatment.
· A small percentage of people with ultrasensitive skin can
never tolerate a retinoid; if you're one of them, use a gentle physical
exfoliator twice a week to soften your skin, and be extra-conscientious about
sunscreen to prevent collagen loss in the first place
Sources:
No comments:
Post a Comment